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Need advice on how to make my Airflow Bottle waterproof
theo_schijf
Member Posts: 4 ✭
Hi All,
I am quite new to 3D printing. Just got my Bambulab X1C. Have had this design in mind of a non glucking (Airflow) bottle (have actually patented it many years ago). Now finally I could design it (I used Onshape) and print it. One problem: I used PLA and cannot get it to stop leaking atiny bit. So what do I do to make my bottle waterproof? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Theo Schijf.
The bottle has 8 air channels from the top to alternating shoulder and bottom. These canals give inflowing air a free path to where the air bubble is forming (first shoulder, second the bottom).
I always thought this would work and gues what, it does.
Answers
Hi, @theo_schijf
Congratulations on the development!
I don't know how legally protected the caps of PET bottles are, but I would use them temporarily. So you would only need to design the end of your bottle to be similar, I wouldn't design the screw cap, but I would use the existing ones. (Those end up in the trash anyway).
They are pressure-resistant and have a pretty advanced design.
To prevent seepage through the print I'd probably set the wall count really high so it's only using wall layers. Maybe slow down the speed too so it really fills in crevices. After that you could always clear coat the outside in a few layers to close any small areas. I'd still just is it for a proof of concept though (not potable water) as I suspect the layer lines would harbor mold and bacteria inside the bottle after a while.
Love the concept btw!
The Onsherpa | Reach peak Onshape productivity
www.theonsherpa.com
Thanks will try increasing the wall count.
I am thrilled that the concept works. After quite of few test bottles of course. I started with 24 channels but reduced it to 8. Too many channels actually reduces the amount of air that can be sucked in.
It is a fun project (that actually started 40 years ago … when I patented it). It is amazing what 3D printers and their tools can do nowadays. Would love to bring the project to glass. But no 3D printer can do that I think.
Transparent filament is the best you'll get, AFAIK. You can maybe use a print to make a mold for casting?
you could try increasing the filament printing temperature by a little and see if you get better flow/adhesion. Just a theory.. haven’t experienced it personally. Could try a different type or grade of filament as well.
On top of adding walls, I would say slower speed, higher filament temperature and add some amount of "over-extrusion" in the print settings. It will look worse but should be able to hold water, although it's is hard to get something fully waterproof with FDM. PETG might also be a better option than PLA for this so might be worth a try
I'm realizing all of the advice here assumes we have to use the FDM machine. You could hire someone to print it on a resin machine like a Formlabs, and it would be easy to get a print that doesn't leak.
The Onsherpa | Reach peak Onshape productivity
www.theonsherpa.com